Gracious Gambia

The Smiling Coast, surrounded by Senegal is like a worm tucked inside an apple. It’s Tuesday, and I’m standing at the entrance of the Fortress of Provisions. The stern, at least 60-year-old bright yellow arch envelops the Serrekunda market, whilst the west African afternoon sun penetrates the fibres of my skin. “D50 for this bunch of spring onions!” shrieks Binta, wearing a white top and traditional multicoloured head tie, along with a long grey skirt with a black leather bag crossed over her body.

Clinging onto our belongings, we hurriedly run through the market, avoiding the wet and sticky puddles which encompass us on all sides. “Keep going straight and stop where you see the red van” is what Tunde (the local guide) tells me as we advance to our mode of transport which will take me to my hotel.

We reach the van, at a place known as “Senegambia Garage”. They call it “Senegambia Garage”, as the vans from this location take you to Senegambia, a hotspot for tourism. About 2km from here is another garage, known as the Bakau Garage. Opposite the Senegambia Garage is a local chicken and chips shop called “African Kitchen”. I intended to explore its atmosphere.

We cross the narrow road, dodging the chaotic traffic. As we step inside, we are greeted by an old man known by the name Omar, sitting on a green prayer mat with gold embroidery, wearing a long white kaftan. It’s 2:15pm, and he’s just finished the mid-afternoon prayers. “Na nga deff?” he says. This means ‘how are you?’ in the local language, Wolof. He sits us down and presents us with the food menu. By this time, the sun is at its highest point, so the electric fans are gyrating above us like rotor blades on helicopters in pursuit of a rescue.

A full chicken with fries and onion sauce was what I order. Tunde only orders a side of fries. The chicken is very popular here, as it is prepared with a blend of seasoning which includes scotch bonnet peppers, mustard, paprika and much more. African Kitchen is the ideal place to visit if you’re looking for a light meal on the go. Meanwhile, the intense heat of the fryer combined with the starchy aroma of the frying chips encompass the hollowness of my stomach. Finally, Omar hands over our food in a brown paper bag, as we make our way to the red van.

“Senegambia! Senegambia!” bellows Mustapha, the driver in urgency, as we hastily jump in and sit down. Driving around the local neighbourhood on a 6-mile journey from Serrekunda to Senegambia, the urban development becomes clear through the high-rise apartments which are so high my neck becomes arrested in a fixed position of awe.

The streets bear names which remind the Gambians of their rich history and culture: Kairaba Avenue, Anna Street, Ceesay Street and Mosque Road – all of which contain a hidden story behind them. “Anna Street is named after a woman called Anna, who used to sell fried Akara and sauce every morning for the residents on that street,” says Tunde.

The wear and tear of the van is evident through the dangling thread of the unstable seats which rock and squeak like mice each time we approach a bump in the road. This is enough to make one’s stomach churn like a grinding machine.

Upon arriving at Coco Ocean Resort and Spa, guests are greeted by the snow-white walls and the vibrant blue, purple and gold logo. The culturally carved windows at the resort are like the cream textured walls at the Woodpecker Resort, another hotel near Yundum International Airport. Adjacent to Coco Ocean is another hotel, Lords Apartments, Bar and Restaurant, one of Senegambia’s newest hotels, due to open next month.

The drilling? Construction workers. “There’s a few new hotels being built here,” explains Aisha Bah, the operations manager who’s checking us in. The small disused building next door? “Nobody really knows how long it’s been there, but it’s been here since the Edwardian times at the least.”

As a child, Aisha Bah always wanted to work in hotels. “Let me be what I want to be,” she begged her parents. But they disagreed: working in a hotel was no job for a girl. For 22 years, Aisha was given an endless list of why, as a woman, she wouldn’t get a job. But today, the 26-year-old is operations manager at Coco Ocean Resort and Spa, which opened in 2008.

After climbing what seems like an endless flight of stairs, we stop on the second floor, where my room is. Across the DNA shaped white staircase is an oblong window, permitting the weak rays of the evening sun to penetrate through. Aisha welcomes me into the room, explaining the facilities available. “Let me know if you need anything else,” she says. Guests are presented with complimentary snacks such as fish pies and spring rolls, which are placed on a dark mahogany chest near the door.

Devoted is too weak a word for the hard-working team at Coco Ocean. From the cashmere bedding and neatly organised bath fizzers to the passionate front of house team handing out sun cream, hats and a map of surrounding Senegambia ensuring people can explore nearby attractions.

Sculptures such as the brown folk art and paintings plastered around the room are inspired by the ancestors of west Africa with pieces of furniture and tiling sustainably sourced. Everywhere in the resort feels intimate, which is great for couples who are looking to spend quality time.

The en-suite is also well managed. Instead of the usual tiles, the walls are decorated with fine, eco-friendly wood which proves resistant to water, hence the immaculate finish. Above is a large arch-shaped window like the ones found in Mosques, with curled railings beneath.

The graceful Coco Ocean Spa represents the epitome of wellbeing. The white simplicity of the walls is unified with soft blue tones, with Moroccan incense, generating a warm and stress-relieving environment, perfect for those looking to unwind.

The beachfront, which is visible from the room is carefully managed ensuring a range of biodiversity. Palm trees overlook the sea with evergreen leaves and ripe coconuts ready for consumption.

The Safran restaurant within the resort is an excellent choice for those who prefer Moroccan and European dishes. With an open kitchen experience, guests are presented with chefs who work tirelessly to produce speckless dishes. The design features French doors and blue louvered windows, along with arched walls.

As the night approaches, the coastal breeze encompasses the beachfront with the backwash of the waves silently echoing through the room.

The next morning, I take a 10-mile-long car ride in a bush taxi from Senegambia to Banjul – an emblem of the country’s independence. I propose to attend the upcoming spring carnival, the first one ever to be hosted in The Gambia in 2024. I wanted to learn more about the cultural elements which define who Gambians are. The sticky air combined with the scorching sun envelops my face as we joyride the motorway.

Opposite the Royal Victoria Hospital on Independence Drive is Marina Restaurant, serving local Gambian food. A perfect spot for those wishing to explore the true nature of Gambian food, ranging from Domoda to Yassa to Benachin, commonly known as Jollof Rice.

Arch 22 will serve as the hotspot for the spring carnival on Independence Drive. This year, it falls on April 15^th. “It brings the entire nation together, and you feel like you belong, no matter where you come from,” says Tunde, as we advance to the kaleidoscope fusion of a crowd.